A Family Affair: Power Struggles, Heritage, and Creative Egos in Fashion’s Royal House

Prada, Monte Carlo 1984 © Helmut Newton Foundation, Berlin

A Family Affair: Power Struggles, Heritage, and Creative Egos in Fashion’s Royal House

This month, Prada announced its acquisition of Versace, uniting two of Italy’s most iconic fashion houses. Both brands boast rich histories and global influence, having shaped the luxury landscape for decades. But as they come together under one roof, a looming question emerges: what happens when power, heritage, and cultural ego collide in the name of fashion? Will Versace’s identity be preserved—or absorbed by Prada’s growing empire?

Prada: The Patriarch’s Legacy

Prada’s journey began in 1913, when Mario Prada and his brother Martino founded Fratelli Prada, Italian for “Prada Brothers.” Specializing in high-quality leather goods, the brand quickly earned a reputation for craftsmanship. Mario, a businessman first, understood the value of image—opening the first store in Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele to position the brand among Italy’s elite.

By 1919, Fratelli Prada was named the official supplier to the Italian royal household, earning the right to use the House of Savoy’s coat of arms—an emblem that remains part of Prada’s legacy today. Ironically, Mario didn’t believe women should run the business. But after his death in 1958, his daughter Luisa Prada stepped in, quietly leading the brand for two decades. The real transformation came in 1978, when Luisa’s daughter, Miuccia Prada, took the reins. Her vision would catapult the company from heritage leather brand to global luxury powerhouse.

Miu Miu: The Playful Little Sister

In 1993, Miuccia launched Miu Miu as a reflection of her own personal style—playful, experimental, and less constrained by Prada’s house codes. While Prada stood for refined minimalism, Miu Miu embraced maximalism, nostalgia, and rule-breaking.

But carving out its identity wasn’t easy. Early on, Miu Miu was seen as a younger, more affordable offshoot of Prada—a diffusion line with less prestige. Still, Miuccia stayed the course, using the label as a platform to challenge convention and redefine luxury on her own terms.

According to The Fashion Stock Market, Miu Miu’s 1995 debut collection leaned into minimalism with a romantic twist—lace and chiffon appeared in 80% of looks, skirts made up 66%, and floral textures added vintage softness. The result was a quiet rebellion: elegant, wearable, and subtly subversive. Over time, Miu Miu shed its “little sister” status and became a standalone global player—proof that independent voices can thrive within a fashion empire.

Jil Sander: The Estranged Brother

Not all of Prada Group’s acquisitions have been smooth. The story of Jil Sander, known as the “Queen of Less,” remains one of the most infamous creative fallouts in fashion history.

In 1999, Prada acquired a 75% stake in the minimalist German label, led by Patrizio Bertelli, the businessman who helped build Prada into a global force. At first, it seemed like a perfect match: Sander brought decades of precision, restraint, and clean lines, while Prada offered the infrastructure to scale globally.

But creative control quickly became a battleground. Sander favored methodical growth and unrelenting quality; Bertelli pushed for mass expansion and branding. Six months after the deal, Jil Sander walked away from her own brand. Though she returned briefly in 2003, the damage was done—by 2004, she exited for good, leaving behind a cautionary tale about the tension between art and corporate ambition.

Versace: The Wild, Sexy Sister

Founded by Gianni Versace in 1978, Versace built its empire on unapologetic glamour. Bold prints, high-gloss color, and the Medusa head logo defined the brand’s exuberant, decadent aesthetic.

After Gianni’s tragic murder in 1997, his sister Donatella Versace stepped into the spotlight. Her 1998 debut as creative director was a bold evolution—preserving Gianni’s legacy while injecting her own rock-and-roll sensuality into the brand. According to The Fashion Stock Market, her first collection was a masterclass in confident, body-conscious dressing: sleeveless silhouettes appeared in 97% of looks, lace in 83%, and dresses in 75%, all punctuated by floral prints and dramatic textures.

Donatella transformed from shadowed sibling into fashion powerhouse—cementing Versace’s place as a brand that celebrates excess, confidence, and Italian flair. More than a businesswoman, she became an icon in her own right.

Prada & Versace: Will the Family Survive?

Now, with Donatella stepping down and Versace joining the Prada Group, the stakes are high. Prada has shown it can nurture distinct identities—see Miu Miu—but it has also faltered, as with Jil Sander. Versace isn’t just another brand. It’s a cultural symbol—of drama, resilience, and maximalist beauty.

Will Prada preserve Versace’s magic, or dilute it? Can heritage and ego coexist under one umbrella? This isn’t just a corporate acquisition—it’s a cultural litmus test. One that asks: in fashion’s ever-expanding dynasties, can power be shared?

Time will tell. But one thing’s certain: everyone is watching.