Birkinomics: How a Battered Bag Became a Status Symbol

With the original Birkin Bag, a prototype made specially for the late ‘70s-it-girl’ Jane Birkin, set to be auctioned off this July in Paris, discussions around the infamous Hermès handbag have resurrected.

Let's start from the beginning, circa 1984. French film icon, Ms. Birkin herself, was aboard a flight from London to Paris when her distressed basket (her signature ‘shabby-chic’ bag) started to break, spilling its contents out in Air France’s first class area. Birkin’s wallet, keys, cigarettes, glasses, diapers, and business cards were scattered all over, catching the attention of the passenger seated next to her, the then executive of Hermès, Jean-Louis Dumas.

The CEO instantly sparked conversation with the actress, and they began discussing the creation of an everyday bag that can hold all of the essentials. The vision was a two-handled bag that looked like a smaller version of the Hermès Haut à Courroies luggage. So, for everyone who thinks a Birkin should be treated as a precious airloom, take it from the muse herself, the bag was literally a customized travel bag that was intentionally designed to carry all the necessities.

Jane Birkin with the original Birkin bag. Courtesy of: Jun Sato/WireImage/Getty Images

The original bag was a simple design: black with gold hardware, two rolled handles, clou (feet), and a lockable closure. It retailed for $2,000 at the time, which is a long ways away from the steep prices that they get away with nowadays, with a similar bag retailing for roughly $9,000.

The history of Hermès began in 1837, founded by Thierry Hermès. They originally sold high quality harnesses and bridles for trade, a stark contrast from puppy harnesses they currently sell for $2,125. Upon Émile-Maurice Hermès’ takeover, the brand shifted more towards general leather goods and clothing, foreshadowing into what the brand would become today.

Orange Strings Attached: The Game of Exclusivity

With fast-fashion, consumerism, and short-attention spans at the heart of our shopping culture, it’s incredible how well the Birkin bag was able to cut through the clutter. Unlike other luxury handbags that have gone in and out of style – think Jacquemus’ “The Chiquito” or Marc Jacobs’ “The Canvas Medium Tote Bag” – due to the Birkin’s exclusivity, it managed to escape micro-trend territory. This artificial scarcity turned product acquisition into a game; we are all puppets attached to orange, leather strings.

The number of Birkin’s made each year is kept a secret, but it’s clear that they purposely produce less than the overall demand, with estimates ranging from 12,000 to 70,000 made each year. The boutiques themselves can only order a limited number of bags twice a year. Even the selection process of which clients can purchase a bag is narrow. Clients desiring the coveted bag are expected to establish an extensive purchase history with the fashion house plus a relationship with an Hermès store and sales associate. Even when clients finally receive the rare offer to purchase a Birkin bag, they are limited in the color, style, and hardware selections. Some refer to this concept as “commodity fetishism,” as consumer incentive to purchase the Birkin has veered from utility to luxury symbolism. This ultimately drives up the material value of the bag. It’s not about cost of materials and labor anymore: it’s about consumer desire.

Another aspect of the bag that preserves its legacy of never going out of style is its lack of ostentatious logos. While designer logo fever was a thing of the early 2000s (a branch-off from the Black originated style trend), the Birkin countered the eclectic look with a more stealth-wealth design. Only people with immense wealth were viewing the bag as “social currency” in its early stages, further adding to its mystique. As the Louis Vuitton print adorned by Paris Hilton grew tiresome, associated more with over-consumption, the minimalistic look of the Birkin persisted.

Quiet Luxury, Loud Intentions

Birkins are often seen as a symbol of success in today’s culture. It’s seen as a self-reward for an accomplishment. You can of course purchase items that are more expensive than a Birkin, but will those items still have that instant, jarring impact of wealth that the Birkin hits consumers over the head with?

With the idea of “new money” becoming more present in society, people tend to see expensive objects as trophies that they have earned. A Birkin can represent a promotion, a new job, or just a new chapter in life.

However, while the Birkin is associated with ‘new money,’ it’s in many ways because of the ever-present societal desire to appear to be from ‘old-money.’ The old money aesthetic is born from five core pillars: is the piece timeless, understated, of heritage, high quality, and discrete? The Birkin checks all of these boxes. Despite this, the bag can just as easily be classified under the “new money” category, as it’s now a recognizable symbol of wealth.

This is due in part to the death of individuality, as uniqueness dissipates and social media gives more and more glimpses into the intricacies of people’s everyday lives. It’s easy to inadvertently be influenced by someone's style or aesthetic, and items that were once mysterious, like a Birkin, are now constantly being shown off in oceans of curated social media feeds.

This raises the question of if all of these consumers truly want the Birkin because it is a perfect combination of luxury and practicality, or because it’s a societal trend that’s high status is constantly being reiterated on TikTok. Personally, I believe it’s the latter. Until it becomes common for Birkin owners to use the bag as Ms. Birkin herself intended – by that I mean stuffed with makeup and books, personally reflective with charms and trinkets, even hanging a nail clipper on the exterior – the desire for the bag seems altogether more superficial than anything else. Even Birkin stated “there's no fun in a bag if it's not kicked around, so that it looks as if a cat's been sitting on it – and it usually has. The cat may even be in it!" It’s clear that the Birkin is having some sort of identity crisis, where heritage is ultimately wrapped up in hype.

The Diamond Matte Himalayan Niloticus Crocodile Birkin. Courtesy of: JaneFinds

The most expensive Birkin is the Himalaya Birkin 30 with diamond hardware, costing over $450,000. Some believe that that’s the same price that the original Birkin will be auctioned off for in Paris this Summer.

We’ll have to wait and see, but the auction is a clear example of the monetary power of exclusivity amongst consumers. I’m sure at the time of the original design, no one anticipated it would become the timeless fashion piece that it is today, but we can thank the algorithm and confusion between style and self-worth for the bag's iconification.

Birkinomics: How a Battered Bag Became a Status Symbol