Tailored to Disrupt: Black Dandyism and the Met Gala’s Menswear Rebrand

Finally, the Met Gala is taking a dive into men's fashion, specifically from a historical lens into Black communities within Black Dandyism – a cultural protest combining fashion with individuality. Before now, the Met Gala has yet to focus on Black history, and often kicked menswear to the sidelines. This year’s theme is set out to reinvent typical men's fashion while also bringing Black culture to center stage.

Black dandyism in this context signifies the evolution of Black men becoming fashion titans, a timeline that dates back to the antebellum era. While Black dandyism is an aesthetic choice, it is also a reference to a political construct.

Re-imagined suites (Credit: Daniele Tamagni Playboys of Bacongo, 2008)

This year’s Met Gala theme “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” will highlight Black Dandyism, inspired by Monica L. Miller, a professor and chair of Africana Studies at Barnard College and her 2009 book: Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity.

Miller will also use her expertise to curate this year’s exhibit, along with Costume Institute Curator in Charge Andrew Bolton, dividing it into 12 sections to each represent an element Black Dandyism as a style. They will include: Ownership, Presence, Distinction, Disguise, Freedom, Champion, Respectability, Jook (referencing the dress style of music and dancing at juke joints, which were spaces of community for Black populations in the south), Heritage, Beauty, Cool, and Cosmopolitanism. It will bring a lot of variety, just like browsing through 12 different pinterest boards. There’s something special in every component.

A look into styles worn during the Harlem Renaissance. (Credit: James Van Der Zee)

Threading Identity: Black Dandyism and the Meaning Behind This Year’s Met Gala Theme

Black dandyism originated in the 18th century, where “dandy” was used to describe middle-class men in Europe who enjoyed lavish lifestyles. It was a sea of silk ties, overcoats, top hats, knee breeches, and custom trousers. As the transatlantic slave trade was going on during his time, Black communities in the diaspora were influenced by the ascendence of European fashion. During this time, many Black men—enslaved or newly free—began adopting and transforming European styles as acts of expression and resistance.

Dandyism is truly about reinvention and finding self-identity, and absolutely not vanity towards appearance, which many mistakenly believe.

“Anyone can be in Vogue without apparent strategy,” said Miller in a 2022 interview, “but dandys commit to a study of the fashions that define them and an examination of the trends, around which they can continually redefine themselves.”

Menswear is finally taking center stage – after boring us in the Meta Gala’s past – with the dress code, “Tailored for You,” leaving it up to attendees to creatively express themselves through menswear classics and suiting.

This will be the first menswear focused Costume Institute Exhibition since the 2003 “Men in Skirts” display.

Livery Coat and Waistcoat from 1840 worn by an unidentified enslaved man (Credit: Maryland Center For History And Culture)

Modern examples of black danyism include the Co-chairs of the Met Gala: A$AP Rocky, Colman Domingo, Pharrel Williams, and Lewis Hamilton. LeBron James will also serve as an honorary co-chair. This board makes history as the first entirely black-male co-chair team.

While an all male Co-chair board may seem slightly questionable, women will be represented as members of the host committee such as Doechii, Ayo Edebiri, and Tyla, who have all had incredible fashion moments this year.

Now, what are we hoping for? In short, men don’t just show up in a black and white suit. The monotony of male red carpet looks is exhausting, but with a theme that is basically screaming “original menswear,” things may turn around this year. One can only hope.

However, we can give credit where credit’s due. There have been some male attendees who have served absolute looks at the Meta Gala in the past. I mean, Chadwick Boseman’s Versace Cape that he wore for 2018’s “Heavenly Bodies” theme, Billy Porter’s sun god inspired ensemble for the 2019 “Camp” carpet, and Kid Cudi’s electric blue suit and floral lined cape for the 2022 “Gilded Glamour” event showcase some of the best male red carpet moments from the gala.

Chadwick Boseman in Versace. (Credit: Daniel Arnold)

So, Who Are the Co-Chairs, Anyway?

Pharrell Williams

A fashion Icon, this multihyphenate, Pharrell’s role as Co-chair is well deserved. The singer has designed for thriving brands like Louis Vuitton and Adidas, and collaborated with Chanel. As of 2023, he’s achieved the position of Creative Director of Menswear at Louis Vuitton, so the Met should be in good hands.

A$AP Rocky

Only A$AP Rocky would wear a thrifted quilt to the Met Gala and turn it into a viral fashion moment. This self-titled “fashion killa” has taken so many fashion risks – from foil pants to pearl hair clips – and is always someone to watch. He also coordinates beautifully with his always fashionable partner, Rihanna.

Colman Domingo

Always vibrant and unique, Colman Domingo is constantly pushing the envelope. He does patterns and monochromatic looks with awe-inspiring silhouettes that have people eagerly anticipating what the Emmy winning actor will wear next.

Louis Hamilton

Lewis Hamilton brings a high-fashion, high-performance edge to the table. The formula 1 driver launched his own streetwear brand, +44, which donates a percentage of its proceeds to Hamilton’s charitable foundation to support equity in education to encourage young people to pursue careers in STEM and changemaking.

Anna Wintour

Technically the only sprinkle of female representation on this year’s team, the Co-chair position is nothing new for Wintour, the editor-in-chief of American Vogue. She became a chair in 1995, and has stayed in that position ever since. With her vast Met Gala experience, she is an absolute icon when it comes to the event.

A$AP Rocky at the 2021 Met Gala. (Credit: Alex Lockett)

Origins of Opulence: The Met Gala’s Past and the Power of Black and Male Fashion

What started as a modest fundraiser has transformed into fashion’s most-watched runway. The gala was introduced in 1948 to fundraise for the costume institute, with admission tickets costing $50. Nowadays, a ticket to the coveted event would be roughly $75,000. So, where did things change?

As time went on, focus shifted onto luxury designs and celebrity guests, the more glamour the better. At the crux of this change is former editor-in-chief of Vogue, Diana Vreeland becoming the consultant for the Costume Institute in 1972.

That brings us to the present. Anna Wintour, previously mentioned co-chair, has been overseeing all past Met Gala’s since 1995, a true Met-veteran.

Men initially attended the event in traditional suites and tuxedos from the 1940s to 1960s. After the 1960s, menswear on the carpet slowly loosened its grip on tradition—swapping black-tie predictability for bold color, texture, and silhouette.

This year’s historically significant theme is sure to have a lasting impact to promote Black fashion and redefining masculinity in the context of fashion.

All in all, this Met Gala has the ability to set a new standard for a new era of men’s red carpet looks, and more eyes on fashion originating from the Black community. Now that fashion icons like Colman Domingo and A$AP Rocky are getting more recognition, it’s safe to predict that menswear is receiving a long anticipated rebrand.

Will this year’s Black Dandyism infused Met Gala have what it takes to revive menswear? With the significance of the theme and fashion-icon filled Co-chair team, all signs point to yes.

Tailored to Disrupt: Black Dandyism and the Met Gala’s Menswear Rebrand